I love Sitka. I love every shoreline; historical landmark and larger-than-life character that makes Sitka the perfect place for me to call home. I appreciate my home when visiting the places listed below, but I gain the most pleasure by going to the more common, private places that all Sitkans know. One such place is Burgess Bauder’s (907-747-3056) veterinary clinic from 3-6 p.m. on weekdays. Here is an institution where children learn the birds and bees and every bystander receives a bit of Dr. Bauder’s wisdom — from the politics of the dive fisheries to the mating habits of macaws to the relative merits of Super Glue as a restorative aid — all within the time it takes to administer a rabies shot. I know it’s wrong to enjoy taking my poor dog to the vet, but this slice of Sitka life is well worth the visit. I wouldn’t wish an emergency vet appointment on any visitor, so here are some other great options in Sitka.
1.) Beaver Lake Trail
Beaver Lake Trail has a steep elevation gain in the first quarter mile, but then is relatively flat and loops around a small lake, taking you through some ancient old-growth forest and one spectacular section of high muskeg meadow with views of the surrounding ridges and peaks. It’s only a three-mile hike, but with enough sweat factor at the start to make you feel virtuous. To access the trail, head to the old pulp mill site, then turn uphill onto Blue Lake Road. At the first fork in the bottom of the valley, turn right into the campground and then park by the bridge over the river. The adventure can be topped off with a visit to the Theobroma Chocolate Factory (Mile 5.5 Sawmill Creek Rd., 1-888-985-2345) back down at the old mill site – just to keep your virtue in check.
2.) A good read in Sitka
Old Harbor Books (201 Lincoln St., 907-747-8808) has a remarkable selection and one of the best Alaska and natural history collections anywhere. The manager, Don Muller, has a slightly cantankerous joi de vivre. He’ll sell you a book and order anything you want, and is always willing to converse on the subjects of environmental causes and social justice. This is the headquarters of the left-wing/libertarian and cranky intelligentsia of Sitka. I have sometimes lost my standing by being away for too long or by daring to disagree with one of the many local pundits you can find either browsing the shelves or drinking in the adjoining coffee shop in the back. But like family, no matter what I seem to have done, they always seem to welcome me back.
3.) Kettleson Memorial Library
If you are more in the mood to borrow and not buy, Kettleson Memorial Library (320 Harbor Dr., 907-747-8708) is on the waterfront by the Centennial Hall on Lake Street. With Internet access and wireless connections there is more clicking of fingers on keyboards than there used to be, but there are still soft chairs and big tables at which to sit and think, and there is still the perfect view of Sitka Sound. The staff is welcoming and well informed and that makes this library a real community center, open to the curious tourist and the local loafers alike. Be sure to check out the life-size Tyrannosaurus rex crashing through the ceiling of the children’s library.
4.) Walk across O’Connell Bridge at sunset
Life in a small island town can have its own challenges, and on more than one occasion a short walk on this elegant span has restored my sense of equanimity. There is a distant volcano gathered up in red robes, small boats coming and going from the islands, and the tribal house and Pioneers Home fronting a tidy little town. Eagles and gulls worry the air above the fish plants, and somehow from the bridge at sunset, our little world seems at peace.