My Alaska: Juneau
By Bill Spear

If you spend enough time in Juneau you will sometime look up and a scene will be so beautiful and so emotionally moving that it will be burned into your memory forever. Well, that's how I remember an old-timer telling it to me in a bar in pre-oil Alaska anyway. And he was right. I have seen some of those scenes and they usually occur in the context of something you have just done that is very scary, exciting or exhilarating in the out-of-doors.

1.) Get Onto the Trails
Juneau may have the most wonderful system of trails in the world. Within a short walk or ride of downtown you can be scaling peaks, rock climbing, overlooking or climbing on glaciers, hunting, biking and fishing. A hike up the Mt Jumbo Trail (Douglas) will put you in an unbelievable "Japanese garden" of twisted wind blown spruce and gentle pools with a magnificent view of Juneau and even grant you a glimpse into the 1,500-square-mile ice field above it. This is not an easy hike for a person not in shape for it and coming down is hard on your knees. This is not Disneyland as my wife is quick to tell people who stand around waiting for Alaska to be brought to them. My pal Jerry Williams, the Alaska Airlines pilot, likes to RUN to the top of Mt. Juneau on the Perseverance Trail (907.465.4563). He starts running right out the door of the Baranof Hotel (127 North Franklin Street, 907.586.2660) and summits and returns in about an hour and a half. It would take me most of a long day anymore. However, why not just take a walk? On the same trail you can go up Basin Road and take the trail to the Ebner Falls. All pretty flat and very beautiful. You might see a Mountain goat or black bear on the sides of the mountain. You'll pass the old mining ruins. If you don't have that much time, why not just wander around some of the old neighborhoods and see what is at the top of all those stairs? If you want a real adventure, continue on the Perseverance and take the sign for Granite Creek Basin (907.586.0428) a spectacular box canyon itself, you can then make your own trail to the top of Mt. Juneau. (Really! It's not illegal.) I doubt you would see another person up there and you would never forget it, but this is a solid 12 hours of serious walking and a sunny day in July or August would be best.

2.) Find Your Way to the Pacific
In addition to these local trails you might notice that almost everywhere you look in Juneau, there it is: the Pacific Ocean. Why not get out in it? Out in the Aleutians it seems pretty clear that the land was just a sort of resting spot for a people who seemed to spend most of their time out on the water. I, frankly, prefer a rowboat, but the Kayak is an elegant piece of equipment that, properly used, can take you anywhere you want to go. Kayaks can be rented in Juneau through Alaska Boat and Kayak (907.798.6886), or if you want a longer, guided trip book with Alaska Discovery (1.800.586.1911).

3.) Refuel
A hot dog and a beer at the Triangle (251 Front St. 907.586.3140) are still just as good as they were 40 years ago. I often go to "The Hanger" (2 Marine Way, 907.586. 5018) on the old wharf because of its great view where you can watch the float planes take off, selection of beer on draft and pleasant service. Good thin crust pizza can be had down the hall at Pizza Roma (Merchant's Wharf, 907.463.5020). If you are traveling in June and want to catch a Stanley Cup game the place to go is Doc Waters (#2 Marine Way, 907.586.3627). Up on North Franklin is Fernando's (116 N. Franklin St, 907.463.3992), right across the street from the Baranof hotel. If you like hot they have a salsa there that will take you down hard. He has the chilies imported from his hometown in Mexico and they are serious. Also Mexican and over looked is Olivia's (222 Seward St., 907.586.6870) on Seward Street. Lots of locals go there for the friendly service and good food. candy and ice cream. For coffee and gelato it's Heritage Coffee (907.586.1088). It's in a basement which I like because we used it in 1972 as the upstart Jay Hammond for Governor headquarters and went from one percent name recognition to winning the election in about six months using hand silk-screened bumper stickers and signs by re-renowned artists like Rie Munoz and Jay Crondahl. Kenny, or Kenny's on Front, knows how to run a restaurant. Mostly Chinese, but a first rate Sushi Bar here. Back down on Franklin Street the Fudge Shop has great candy and ice cream.

Bill Spear is a long-time Alaska resident and artist. He designs and sells handcrafted enamel pins. His pins are sold all over the world and have been displayed in the Guggenheim Museum. Bill has also designed pins for the National Air and Space Society, The Nature Conservancy and the Audubon Society.

Check out www.wmspear.com for more information on Bill Spear.

To learn more about what to see and do in Juneau and the Inside Passage, visit the Inside Passage section of TravelAlaska.com.

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