Southcentral Community: Seldovia
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Across Kachemak Bay from Homer and in a world of its own is Seldovia, a small fishing village. The town is slow moving, sleepy and lives up to its nickname, ‘City of Secluded Charm.’ Although in recent years tour boats have made it a regular stop, the village has managed to retain much of its old Alaskan charm and provides an interesting and worthwhile side trip away from Alaska’s highway system.
Seldovia is one of the oldest settlements along Cook Inlet. Named after the Russian word seldevoy, meaning herring bay, the town grew into a year round harbor for the Russians. By the 1890s, Seldovia was an important shipping and supply center for the region and the town boomed right into the 1920s. After the Sterling Highway was completed to Homer in the 1950s, Seldovia’s population and importance as a supply center began to dwindle but it was the 1964 earthquake that caused the most rapid change in the community. The Good Friday Earthquake caused the land beneath Seldovia to settle four feet, allowing high tides to flood much of the original town. Today, Seldovia is home to about 300 friendly residents and a charming, picturesque and peaceful place to spend some time.
Walking around town is a favorite activity for visitors, as is browsing the local shops. Interpretive signs placed about provide cultural and natural history tidbits. In town, across from the small boat harbor is the Alaska Tribal Cache, operated by the Seldovia Native Association, featuring a small, but interesting collection of Native Alaskan and Russian artifacts as well as traveling displays. Overlooking the town it St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church. Built in 1891 and restored in the early 1980s, the church is a national historic site and open on weekday afternoons when you can go in and view the icons.
Jakolof Bay Road is a great place to bike or walk and offers panoramic views of Kachemak Bay, McDonald Spit, Jakolof Bay and Kasitsna Bay. McDonald Spit is a favorite spot for seabirds and marine life. Eagles are also a common sight and occasionally sea otters. Watch for whales in the bay during spring and fall migrations. At low tide you can explore the sea life among the rocks and take in Mt. Redoubt and Mt. Iliamna across the bay.
Blueberries grow so thick just out of town you can often rake your fingers through the bushes and fill a two-quart bucket in minutes. Low-bush cranberries and salmonberries are also abundant. The Blueberry Festival, held on Labor Day weekend, provides lots of fun and entertainment and, of course, a blueberry bake sale and a pick-a-cup-of-berries bicycle race.
Seldovia has a number of wonderful hiking trails. A favorite is Otterbahn, 1.2 miles from town to Outside Beach, a beautiful spot with beachcombing, surf fishing and a spectacular view of Kachemak Bay. There are also some excellent kayaking opportunities. To the north is Eldred Passage with Cohen, Yukon and Hesketh Islands. All three are prime spots for viewing otters, sea lions and seals. The northern shore of Yukon Island features caves and tunnels that can be explored at high tide. Sadie Cove, Tatka and Jackolof Bays offer protected water, interesting geological features and numerous beaches. You can transport your own kayak, rent one in town or take a guided trip with a local operator.
Fishing and Seldovia are synonymous, with halibut and salmon the favorite catches. Numerous fishing charters are available in town and a number of lodges and bed and breakfasts provide the whole package.
The Seldovia Summer Solstice Folk Music Festival is held in June and features a number of national recording artists as well as Alaskan musicians. Another favorite event is the annual Fourth of July celebration.
Seldovia has retained its charm and traditions. The relaxed atmosphere endears the town to its longtime residents as well as visitors, who sometimes fall so hard for Seldovia they decide this is where they belong. For most, the town becomes a place where they can regularly escape for a couple of weeks, or maybe all summer.
Details
Travellers with cameras snap a photograph of wildlife from the deck of a boat
Population: 287
Location: Seldovia is on the Kenai Peninsula across from Homer on the south shore of Kachemak Bay, a 15-minute flight.
Access: By Alaska state ferry from Homer (approx. ½ hr. crossing time), water taxi, charter and tour boats from Homer, scheduled air service from Homer.
Accommodations: Four hotels/motels, four lodges/resorts, 10 bed and breakfasts, four cabins, five restaurants/cafes, most services.