Feature Copy: Hiking Alaska's mountains
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The dim shadows of the trackless brush extended in every direction. Two hours past sunset and all we knew was that we had to get down to the narrow, deep valley that fell away into the darkness before us. But the low-hanging mists and steep ridge didn't make it easy. Too far in one direction and we'd be falling off 200-or-so-foot cliffs. Too far in the other and we'd miss the trail we wanted to intersect with in the gorge below.
"Ohh!!" Donna suddenly gasped behind us.
Immediately Niles and myself turned around. Of course, we expected the worst: a bear, or an injury, or even just exhausted resignation after almost 13 hours of hiking. But that's not what we got.
For there, at the far end of the earth toward which Donna's arm pointed, the moon was rising. Up through the waves of clouds that washed over the Wrangell-St. Elias Range far off to the east, it was slowly making its way toward the clearer, starry sky above. Though indistinct and far from certain, the blue, white-capped shapes that we could see rising through the long, flat strands of clouds over 100 air miles away were probably Mounts Sanford, Drum, and Wrangell. It was possible that somewhere in that melded mass of mountains and clouds rising into the night sky off at the edge of the earth was the bulk Mount Blackburn itself, the fifth highest peak in Alaska at 16,390 feet, and close to 150 miles away.
"Wow," was all any of us could say. Which is probably all any one can say about such an adventure.
Yet adventures just like it are possible on any mountain in any one of the more than fifty distinct mountain ranges, chains, or wide-reaching sweep of isolated hills in Alaska. And each one is geologically, meteorologically, and geographically unique-unique enough to provide not only adventure like ours, but one with its own personal twist, depending on one's preference. If you want glaciers, go to the Alaskan Range; if you want rain forests and sharp ridges, go to the Coastal Range; if you want wide, wild places, go to the Brooks Range; or if you want just long stretches of wide, rolling country, go to the Peters Hills. It simply doesn't make any difference where you go in the state or how long you stay there: outdoor adventures of all shapes and sizes are everywhere in this state.
Just within driving distance of Anchorage, there are at least four mountain ranges with an abundance of places to hike, climb, ski, run, or bike. In the Chugach Mountains right next to the city, one can do anything from go for an afternoon stroll up 3,550-foot high Flattop or go on a multi-day expedition up the 30-mile long Matanuska Glacier to climb 13,176-foot Mount Marcus Baker. There's also the short hike up to Thunderbird Falls or, more spectacular, the tram ride up Mount Alyeska where one can actually step on-and feel the power-of a glacier.
For running enthusiasts who want to work harder for their mountaintop views, there a number of year-round local races in the Anchorage area. These include the Alyeska Resort Mountain Run in Girdwood as well as the Robert Spurr Memorial Mountain Race up Bird Ridge, as well as a pile of other races. For the real mountain runner there is the Matanuska Peak Challenge, in Palmer. This 14-mile race climbs up and down a long ridge to the 6,119-foot summit of Matanuska Peak.
Farther south, in the Kenai Mountains, there's also an abundance of things to do. Kayak across Kachemak Bay to hike on 52 miles of trails in Kachemak State Park. Out of Seward, hike the Caines Head Trail along Resurrection Bay before climbing high into the Alpine country above. In downtown Seward, one can also climb up 3,022-foot Mount Marathon or, on the Fourth of July, run up it with hundreds of other racers in the almost world famous 3.25-mile Mount Marathon Race. A longer gentler race is the 15.5-mile long Lost Lake Breath of Life, which goes up and over a 2,100-foot pass near the beautiful Lost Lake just north of Seward.
A few miles north of Seward, is Exit Glacier. Here, a 4-mile long trail leads up from the base to an overlook above the seemingly limitless expanse of the Harding Icefield. A favorite of hikers, skiers and mountain-bikers is the gently graded 38-mile long Resurrection Trail which cuts right across the mountains of the peninsula's center. Those wanting a steeper, scenic hike may want to climb up to the 3,700-foot summit of Point Hope towering high above the waters of Turnagain Arm. There is even a race up it on the last Sunday in May.
Farther north is the Talkeetna Mountain range. Because there are fewer official trails in the Talkeetnas, they are easier to get lost in. This is part of their appeal, though. That's why so many seek out the central Talkeetnas where old mining roads lead up drainages like that of the Chickaloon River, Kings River and Purinton Creek into the heart of these big mountains. For those who want something tamer, there are the official trails that wind all up and down the Hatcher Pass area. These range from the extremely short trails that wind through the Independence Mine State Historical Park to the 8-mile round-trip up the mountain-enclosed Reed Lakes Trail or the 16-mile round-trip up the Gold Mint Trail.
To the east of the Talkeetnas are the much bigger Wrangell-St. Elias Range, the highest of which-Mount Blackburn-towers 16,390 glacier-girded feet above sea level. From the small communities of Kennecott and McCarthy located right in their midst, one can do anything from go off on an expedition to one of the high, nearby peaks or simply stroll up and down the moraine in the valley below or even wander among the ruins of Kennecott Mine. Another favorite is the 9-mile round-trip to an overlook of the icefall on Root Glacier. Mountain-bikers should consider entering the famous Fat Tire Festival, which is highlighted by the 60-mile mountain-bike race along gravel Chitna to McCarthy road. Better make sure your bike has some good suspension before trying it, though.
A little farther north, and in the shadow of Mount McKinley itself, are the Peters Hills. On the numerous old mining roads which wind every which way across this rolling landscape, one can bike or hike for as long or as short as they wish. Or they can just stare at the towering Mount McKinley.
In and around Denali National Park are numerous trails, including the 5-mile round-trip up Healy Ridge and the Kesugi Ridge Trail, which can be followed for 27.5 miles along a ridgetop that offers magnificent views of Mount McKinley and its formidable satellite peaks.
A little more than 20 miles north of Fairbanks is the rolling, scenic White Mountains National Recreation Area. In this 1,000,000-acre forest, there are dozens of trails to wind in and out of during the day and numerous huts and cabins to unwind in at night. Just east of the White Mountains is the Steese National State Conservation Area. Though there are fewer trails here than in the national forest, it is worth visiting, especially for the 27-mile Pinnell Mountain ridge traverse with its not too difficult climbs and very long views. Not to be outdone, the 250,00 acre Chena River State Recreation Area also has hikes like the 30-mile loop Chena Dome Trail and the much shorter, 4-mile loop Angel Rocks Trail. But the real gem in this recreation area is the 15-mile loop up alongside the naturally formed Granite Tors. Imagine Stonehenge; then imagine Stonehenge built by nature and vastly bigger. Then finally imagine these great granite towers, pinnacles and spires standing stark against a midnight sun sky: wondrous. There is even a trail race run along this trail in early August.
Farther north yet, and perhaps even more sweeping than the White Mountains and more monumental than the Granite Tors is the Brooks Range. Starkly beautiful and terribly dramatic, these mountains should be visited by the novice hiker or climber only if accompanied by an experienced guide. Whether looking for first ascents among the spired peaks, long hikes down the tundra-carpeted valleys, or a kayak trip down an endless river, this is the place.
Turning southwest, there are the numerous, and almost as remote, mountain ranges scattered all over the Seward Peninsula where the small town of Nome is located. Though mostly known for being the end of the famed 1,100-mile Iditarod Race, Nome is also a great jumping off place for hiking. The Kigluaik Mountains can be easily accessed by Nome's limited road system. Then there's also the Bering Land Bridge National Preserve located on the north side of the peninsula where there is some great hiking on the Continental Divide. For those who want to run, there's also the 12.5-mile loop run to the 1,134-foot summit of Anvil Mountain on the Fourth of July in Nome.
The real hardy should go even farther west to the remote and wild Aleutian Islands. When the sun is shining on the green grasses of these barren islands and the winds come to their occasional halt, there is no better, more wildly beautiful place to be. The same can also be said of the slightly tamer island of Kodiak located just a little over 200 miles southwest of Anchorage. The hiking on the open landscape of the wind-blown 3,400 square mile island of Kodiak is particularly scenic and varied. Within easy walking distance of the town of Kodiak there are trails up Barometer Mountain and Pyramid Mountain. A longer trek can also be made to climb 4,470-foot Mount Koniag, the highest point on the island. There are also many races held on Kodiak, including the open and scenic 9.2-mile Pillar Mountain Race in late May.
On the Aleutians, on the other hand, there are countless coves and small islands to kayak in and around between the otters below and the puffins above. On all these islands, whether out on the farthest Aleutian or just down the beach from the town of Kodiak, sea birds wing through the air or call from the rocky cliffs, sea lions swim in the waves below, and marmots whistle from the long grass on the bluffs. For those who want to experience a bit of history, try Adak Island and Atka Island where the Japanese actually set foot on American soil during the war. One will want to call the local visitor's bureau or read up on the area first as the historic sites are not well marked.
Almost the opposite of the wide open and wind-blown western islands is the southeastern panhandle with its numerous adventure opportunities. In this land where water, mountains, rain forests and glaciers commingle, there are literally countless opportunities for hiking, biking, kayaking and play of all sorts. Farthest north, where mainland Alaska narrows into the panhandle, is the mighty park of Glacier Bay. For those who like to look up at high mountains, kayak around the towering fronts of blue, rumbling glaciers or climb snow-covered peaks, this is the place to explore. Though there are no trails reaching into these icy realms, a ferry from the town of Gustavus can drop you off almost anywhere to do anything from canoeing and hiking to ice-climbing and kayaking.
As one turns south down the panhandle, the Coastal Mountains become broken up by a series of islands. Rain forests rise into craggy, open summits swirling in wet mists and raining clouds. Here, beginning in Skagway is the Chilkoot Trail. For no list of places to hike on the panhandle-or in all of Alaska, for that matter-would be complete without mention of the Chilkoot Trail in Skagway. This 33-mile long trail, is not only scenic, but also historical. For this is the route that the gold miners during the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898 took. Anyone who makes the 3-day trip including the climb up the "Golden Staircase" to the 3,600-foot high Chilkoot Pass will never forget it.
Continuing farther south toward Juneau, Alaska's capital city, located right at the base of the great Coastal Range itself, one enters the mind-boggling 16,500,000 acre Tongass National Forest. In this preserve around Juneau alone, one will find over 25 trails winding through forests, climbing alongside glaciers, and rolling over ridges. Of these, Perseverence Trail and Mount Juneau are perhaps the most popular. For some of the way, these hikes which begin virtually in downtown Juneau, are one and the same as they pass by thundering Ebener Falls. A mile from where the Perseverence Trail starts, many people will turn left and continue the mile climb up to the summit of 3,576-foot Mount Juneau, whereas others make the more moderate, but longer hike up the Granite Creek basin.
Those looking for a short, spectacular hike in Juneau may opt for the hike up Mount Roberts. A lookout spot minutes from the trailhead gives you an overview of Juneau, Douglas Island and Gastineau Channel. Anyone continuing on to the top-including competitors in the 1,800-foot climb Mount Roberts Tram Run-can also take the Tramway down. There are also trails on either side of Mendenhall Glacier, Juneau's signature glacier. These include the West and East Glacier trails, both of which can be done on mountain bikes as well as on foot. Other trails, including Herbert Glacier Trail, begin at roadside and pass through lush rain forest before climbing toward the glacier above. But those who don't want to exert themselves on foot, will also find Juneau a great place to parasail, sail, or kayak among the hump-backed whales who come up the channel to feed.
The Tongass National Forest doesn't end there, though. This preserve, which is certainly far bigger than anybody's wildest outdoor adventure, continues all the way to the end of the panhandle. Among the dots of lakes and isolated mountains of the various islands and mainland that makes up these southernmost reaches of the national forest there are a host of trails of all lengths, sizes and difficulties for hikers of every ilk. There are also mountains to climb and beaches to comb. There is also more kayaking, sailing and canoeing to be done in the maze of waterways winding in and out and around the many islands of this rich, lush landscape.
Over an hour after turning away from the Wrangell -St. Elias Range, Donna, Niles and myself stumbled out of the trees onto the Caribou Creek Trail, a welcome reward after all our bushwhacking. After climbing over six 6,000-plus-foot peaks, gaining close to 7,000 feet in elevation, and bushwhacking 4 miles in the dark, we were finally back at the car. And yet for how long and hard we worked-and how happy we were to see the car-we were actually ready to do it all over again. The only question was, "Where? Where would we go next in this Great Land where there are just too many great things to do?" --Shawn Lyons
Alaska Travel
Industry Association
2600 Cordova St. Ste. 201
Anchorage, AK 99503-2745
P. (800) 327-9372
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